My scheduled start time was 6:00 pm, Sunday August 21, 2011 along with about 3500 other cyclists who chose a 90 hour start time. Although I had to check out of my room at The Mercure, Kevin & Chris Kaiser, who weren't starting until 4:00 am Monday, let me share their room for an afternoon nap. I rode 1.5 km from the hotel to the start around 5:00. The long line of riders was moving so I jumped in but when I saw we were going to be waiting in the heat and sun I found a shady spot to stretch out in and eat food I brought to consume before riding. I started around 7:45, which was no big deal since rider times started when our transponder actually crossed the line. Two friends, Steve Phillips and David Roddy from Alabama and Kentucky were in the same start group so we rode together intermittently.
St Qentin en Yvelines--Mortagne-au-Perche
At the start of the ride and for the first hour of the ride you feel like a rock star. People are lined all along the roads cheering. I didn't need a cue sheet--there were many cyclists in front of and behind me so I just followed the wave. Also the cue was in French and the roads are not marked the way they are in America. Darkness settled in around 9:30 and still lots of folks cheering on the road sides. Now some of them had water and food to offer riders. I didn't need anything until an optional control at Mortagne-au-Perche. Steve Phillips was there and we both tried to buy a sandwich and a coke, but it took forever. Steve never did get anything so I gave him half my sandwich for which he was most grateful.
Mount Portagne-au-Perche--Villaines-la-Juhel and Beyond
Rode through the night with hundreds of other riders and still the crowds along the road were impressive. Some folks even hailed us from bedroom windows. I arrived at the first mandatory control at 6:54 Monday morning. Saw David, Steve, and Jeff Sammons (another friend from Tennessee). From there I rode all day in great weather though controls at Fougeres (12:17 pm), Tinteniac (3:29 pm). This portion of the course was fairly flat with numerous small villages and great rural scenery. I stopped several times where folks had set up impromptu stops to fill bottles and get food. I remember lots of great tasting chocolate and pound cake and that none of these people would take any money.
Loudeac
Got to Loudeac around 9:00 pm. David and Jeff were there and we had hotel rooms, so we collected our drop bags and rode short distance to hotel. Jeff was at different hotel, but David and I had rooms at Les Routiers. As we arrived the heavens opened up and it began raining big time. My room was on third floor with community toilet and shower. The manager/owner spoke no English but I was able to convey that I was hungry so she prepared a meal of chicken and pasta with plenty of bread and water--pretty simple but it really hit the spot. Showered and slept until 12:30 am, then met David and Jeff to start riding. I was looking for something more to eat as the owner was ready to fix a breakfast then but Jeff and David were ready so we headed out onto wet roads, but no rain.
Loudeac--Carhaix
Now the hills began in earnest. I was very hungry so when I came upon a make shift restaurant under a tent, I stopped and filled up on croissants, oranges and coffee. Now riders were spreading out, but I kept other tail lights in sight and followed them. I also saw the head lights of returning riders which also kept me on course. Got to Carhaix around 6:30 Tuesday morning catching up to David, Jeff, and Steve. Had breakfast with them and cat napped at the table. I also saw Kevin who although starting 8 hours later had caught up by riding fast and not stopping for sleep.
Carhaix--Brest
As I rode out of Carhaix there was long down hill ( I was already not looking forward to climbing that on the return). The hills got more frequent and steeper, and the weather got worse. There was a light rain along with a chill and then fog so heavy I had to stop and put in contact lenses because my glasses made seeing the road impossible. The route into Brest took a circuitous journey all through the town before reaching the control. I was so ready for this portion of the ride to end since it meant I was half way done. I arrived in Brest about 1:00 pm, but didn't hang around there very long.
Brest--Carhaix
Heading over the hills back to Carhaix was hard but at least the weather was considerably better. Kevin and Chris Kaiser both passed at different times and provided much appreciated encouragement. During this portion of the ride I actually thought that if I was willing to suffer even more and forgo sleep I had a chance to complete the ride in less than 80 hours. Sanity soon returned as I was already suffering enough and things would have to go perfectly to attain a sub 80 hour finish. As I climbed the long hill back into Carhaix I stopped at pharmacy to pick up pain medication as I was running low on Motrin. Got to Carhaix at 7:15 pm and ate soup, pasta and ice cream.
Carhaix--Loudeac
Left Carhaix around 8:00 and caught several groups along the way. Since I had followed tail lights in the dark on the way out along this route I wanted to do the same on the return. I also was occasionally throwing my chain over the large ring when shifting. I was able to get it back onto chain ring without stopping but when it happened about 3-4 times over the next few miles I stopped to check further and found the piece of the front derailleur that keeps chain in the derailleur itself was missing. I could shift but had to be careful not to do anything too fast or hard as so I wouldn't have to repair a broken chain at night. The final run into the Loudeac was filled with short down hills and up hills so given my shifting issue I was very glad to arrive just before 2:00 am Wednesday. Spoke with a mechanic at the control who said they could replace the derailleur in about 15 minutes. I decided instead to go to my hotel room, shower, sleep, eat and then deal with it in the morning. Showered and went to bed at 3:00 intending to get up at 6:00 but over slept until 7:15. Ate an omelet, bread, juice and coffee, then headed back to control, dropped my bag and went to the mechanic. They replaced derailleur and I headed for Tinteniac around 8:45
Loudeac--Tinteniac
By now riders had spread out and I saw very few folks on the route. Course was fairly flat just as it had been on the way out. My saddle sores were getting uncomfortable and my back and neck were also getting fatigued. I began stopping more frequently to stretch and nap. Because riding with hands on the hoods or near the stem put more pressure on my saddle sores I rode a lot deep in the drops. That meant my neck became even more fatigued and it got to where I simply had to keep trading one type suffering for another. Also the new derailleur wasn't shifting very well and I remembered how ludicrous it was for me to think about a sub 80 effort. I rolled into Tinteniac around 4: 00pm and found a mechanic who got my shifting to work more effectively. I ate, stocked up on food and wondered where I could find a mechanic to straighten out my body.
Tinteniac--Foureges
During this portion of the ride I started experiencing hot foot in addition to all my other pains. Several times I had to stop, take off my shoes and lie down with feet elevated. After a few minutes and some massaging I could eliminate that aspect of suffering. Surprisingly the thing I feared the most--pain in any of my artificial joints--never became an issue. I began to dream about a back and neck replacement. Arrived in Foureges about 6:30 and when I got off the bike to get my control card signed I could hardly stand up straight or walk normally. It was literally easier to ride the bike and lean on the handlebars. I also was now having difficulty eating solid food. I manged to down some pie--really craved ice cream but there wasn't any. I probably stayed here too long but needed a nap.
Foureges--Villaines
As I left Foureges I started to wonder whether I was going to finish within the time limit. I was riding slower and stopping much more frequently. I realized that I would arrive in Villaines past the time limit on the control card although with credit for late start and a time adjustment for the derailleur repairs (which I had gotten documented on my control card) I figured as long as I could just keep moving I would make it. Now it was dark, there were very few other riders around me and I noticed the route marking signs which seemed so frequent earlier were now non-existent. I began to worry that I had missed a turn and even thought about reversing course to find the last sign. Fortunately every so often I would see lights from another rider. However, one time as I approached a round about looking for a sign, I braked and my upper body just collapsed onto the handle bars. I manged to stop but then fell from total fatigue ripping a nice hole in my right knee. Fortunately I was now at the Villaines control (1:30 am) so parked my bike in a stand, left my helmet with my bike and went to have my control card signed and my knee taken care of at the medical tent. I also had a drop bag there and decided to shower and change, but discovered they had taken the drop bags from there about 10 frigging minutes before I arrived. OK I thought, just get treated, eat and move on. However, when I went to get my bike it had been moved by the organizers but my helmet (and helmet light) were not with the bike. MAJOR PROBLEM!!! I and several folks looked all over but no helmet. In France helmets are not required (they are more picky about reflective vests) so I could continue. However, one of the organizers found an old Bell helmet and gave it to me. It must have been 20 years old, didn't fit, was terribly uncomfortable, would not even let me wear a cycling cap underneath. Nevertheless it was a helmet and I didn't need a cycling cap to protect my head from sun at 3:00 am so I donned it and headed out after spending probably 90 minutes there.
Beyond Villaines
I rode about 40 km past Villaines still with very few route marks. I would go many kilometers without seeing other riders or signs. I was having a hard time keeping my head upright and constantly worried about missing a turn. I approached a round about, couldn't see any route sign, and when I applied brakes to slow down my upper body again collapsed onto the handle bars. Unlike the last time I was moving at pretty good clip, couldn't raise up and clipped a curb. I heard my helmet crack against the pavement, felt my shoulder strike the pavement, and wound up under my bike on a rural road in the middle of no where.
I don't know if I lost consciousness but as I became aware of my surroundings there wasn't a single person around. Then one motorist stopped, followed by several more. I tried to get up but my right shoulder reminded me that moving wasn't a good idea. I manged to get my control card with my left hand and pointed to the the next control and phone number but no one understood English. A couple other riders came by and although they didn't speak English they knew what I was showing them and made a phone call. One of them got my bike off me, and seemed very concerned that he couldn't figure out how to turn off my lights.
Police and ambulance personnel arrived and begin planning on taking me to a hospital. I tried to explain I needed to get back on my bike to finish my ride, but when one of the ambulance folks tested my right shoulder I realized the hospital was a better option. I did try to have them at least put my bike in the ambulance but I still had not found anyone at the scene who understood English. I finally figured that the police wouldn't leave my bike and I would have to deal with getting it back later.
Aftermath
I was taken to a hospital in Alerons where a few people spoke English. Xrays revealed a fractured right clavicle above my shoulder (fracture de l'extremite distale de la clavicule droite). No concussion but the Bell helmet was toast. I left it in a hospital trash can thankful I had not refused it or ditched it earlier. I was advised the ride organization had my bike and would make arrangements to get me back to my hotel. However, I had to wait about 6 hours for that to happen and then another 2 hour trip back to The Hotel Mercure. The hospital put me in a quiet private waiting room where I could sleep and fed me breakfast and lunch. However, it's hard to get comfortable wearing cycling clothes I ended up wearing for about 30 hours.
I got back to my hotel around 4:00 pm, briefed several friends who were in the lobby on what happened, and after cleaning up collapsed for the night. I also learned that an American cyclist from northern Virginia had been killed when he apparently fell asleep and drifted into an oncoming truck. His name was Thai Pham, and we had teamed up on a 600 k brevet last May riding together throughout a Saturday night and most of Sunday. That ride was the final qualifying ride for both of us to get into PBP. Although I never saw him in Paris I remember he was once of the nicest folks I had ever ridden with. It reminded me that life can be fleeting and sometimes turns on a simple decision like not refusing /ditching an uncomfortable, ill-fitting 20 year old helmet
St Qentin en Yvelines--Mortagne-au-Perche
At the start of the ride and for the first hour of the ride you feel like a rock star. People are lined all along the roads cheering. I didn't need a cue sheet--there were many cyclists in front of and behind me so I just followed the wave. Also the cue was in French and the roads are not marked the way they are in America. Darkness settled in around 9:30 and still lots of folks cheering on the road sides. Now some of them had water and food to offer riders. I didn't need anything until an optional control at Mortagne-au-Perche. Steve Phillips was there and we both tried to buy a sandwich and a coke, but it took forever. Steve never did get anything so I gave him half my sandwich for which he was most grateful.
Mount Portagne-au-Perche--Villaines-la-Juhel and Beyond
Rode through the night with hundreds of other riders and still the crowds along the road were impressive. Some folks even hailed us from bedroom windows. I arrived at the first mandatory control at 6:54 Monday morning. Saw David, Steve, and Jeff Sammons (another friend from Tennessee). From there I rode all day in great weather though controls at Fougeres (12:17 pm), Tinteniac (3:29 pm). This portion of the course was fairly flat with numerous small villages and great rural scenery. I stopped several times where folks had set up impromptu stops to fill bottles and get food. I remember lots of great tasting chocolate and pound cake and that none of these people would take any money.
Loudeac
Got to Loudeac around 9:00 pm. David and Jeff were there and we had hotel rooms, so we collected our drop bags and rode short distance to hotel. Jeff was at different hotel, but David and I had rooms at Les Routiers. As we arrived the heavens opened up and it began raining big time. My room was on third floor with community toilet and shower. The manager/owner spoke no English but I was able to convey that I was hungry so she prepared a meal of chicken and pasta with plenty of bread and water--pretty simple but it really hit the spot. Showered and slept until 12:30 am, then met David and Jeff to start riding. I was looking for something more to eat as the owner was ready to fix a breakfast then but Jeff and David were ready so we headed out onto wet roads, but no rain.
Loudeac--Carhaix
Now the hills began in earnest. I was very hungry so when I came upon a make shift restaurant under a tent, I stopped and filled up on croissants, oranges and coffee. Now riders were spreading out, but I kept other tail lights in sight and followed them. I also saw the head lights of returning riders which also kept me on course. Got to Carhaix around 6:30 Tuesday morning catching up to David, Jeff, and Steve. Had breakfast with them and cat napped at the table. I also saw Kevin who although starting 8 hours later had caught up by riding fast and not stopping for sleep.
Carhaix--Brest
As I rode out of Carhaix there was long down hill ( I was already not looking forward to climbing that on the return). The hills got more frequent and steeper, and the weather got worse. There was a light rain along with a chill and then fog so heavy I had to stop and put in contact lenses because my glasses made seeing the road impossible. The route into Brest took a circuitous journey all through the town before reaching the control. I was so ready for this portion of the ride to end since it meant I was half way done. I arrived in Brest about 1:00 pm, but didn't hang around there very long.
Brest--Carhaix
Heading over the hills back to Carhaix was hard but at least the weather was considerably better. Kevin and Chris Kaiser both passed at different times and provided much appreciated encouragement. During this portion of the ride I actually thought that if I was willing to suffer even more and forgo sleep I had a chance to complete the ride in less than 80 hours. Sanity soon returned as I was already suffering enough and things would have to go perfectly to attain a sub 80 hour finish. As I climbed the long hill back into Carhaix I stopped at pharmacy to pick up pain medication as I was running low on Motrin. Got to Carhaix at 7:15 pm and ate soup, pasta and ice cream.
Carhaix--Loudeac
Left Carhaix around 8:00 and caught several groups along the way. Since I had followed tail lights in the dark on the way out along this route I wanted to do the same on the return. I also was occasionally throwing my chain over the large ring when shifting. I was able to get it back onto chain ring without stopping but when it happened about 3-4 times over the next few miles I stopped to check further and found the piece of the front derailleur that keeps chain in the derailleur itself was missing. I could shift but had to be careful not to do anything too fast or hard as so I wouldn't have to repair a broken chain at night. The final run into the Loudeac was filled with short down hills and up hills so given my shifting issue I was very glad to arrive just before 2:00 am Wednesday. Spoke with a mechanic at the control who said they could replace the derailleur in about 15 minutes. I decided instead to go to my hotel room, shower, sleep, eat and then deal with it in the morning. Showered and went to bed at 3:00 intending to get up at 6:00 but over slept until 7:15. Ate an omelet, bread, juice and coffee, then headed back to control, dropped my bag and went to the mechanic. They replaced derailleur and I headed for Tinteniac around 8:45
Loudeac--Tinteniac
By now riders had spread out and I saw very few folks on the route. Course was fairly flat just as it had been on the way out. My saddle sores were getting uncomfortable and my back and neck were also getting fatigued. I began stopping more frequently to stretch and nap. Because riding with hands on the hoods or near the stem put more pressure on my saddle sores I rode a lot deep in the drops. That meant my neck became even more fatigued and it got to where I simply had to keep trading one type suffering for another. Also the new derailleur wasn't shifting very well and I remembered how ludicrous it was for me to think about a sub 80 effort. I rolled into Tinteniac around 4: 00pm and found a mechanic who got my shifting to work more effectively. I ate, stocked up on food and wondered where I could find a mechanic to straighten out my body.
Tinteniac--Foureges
During this portion of the ride I started experiencing hot foot in addition to all my other pains. Several times I had to stop, take off my shoes and lie down with feet elevated. After a few minutes and some massaging I could eliminate that aspect of suffering. Surprisingly the thing I feared the most--pain in any of my artificial joints--never became an issue. I began to dream about a back and neck replacement. Arrived in Foureges about 6:30 and when I got off the bike to get my control card signed I could hardly stand up straight or walk normally. It was literally easier to ride the bike and lean on the handlebars. I also was now having difficulty eating solid food. I manged to down some pie--really craved ice cream but there wasn't any. I probably stayed here too long but needed a nap.
Foureges--Villaines
As I left Foureges I started to wonder whether I was going to finish within the time limit. I was riding slower and stopping much more frequently. I realized that I would arrive in Villaines past the time limit on the control card although with credit for late start and a time adjustment for the derailleur repairs (which I had gotten documented on my control card) I figured as long as I could just keep moving I would make it. Now it was dark, there were very few other riders around me and I noticed the route marking signs which seemed so frequent earlier were now non-existent. I began to worry that I had missed a turn and even thought about reversing course to find the last sign. Fortunately every so often I would see lights from another rider. However, one time as I approached a round about looking for a sign, I braked and my upper body just collapsed onto the handle bars. I manged to stop but then fell from total fatigue ripping a nice hole in my right knee. Fortunately I was now at the Villaines control (1:30 am) so parked my bike in a stand, left my helmet with my bike and went to have my control card signed and my knee taken care of at the medical tent. I also had a drop bag there and decided to shower and change, but discovered they had taken the drop bags from there about 10 frigging minutes before I arrived. OK I thought, just get treated, eat and move on. However, when I went to get my bike it had been moved by the organizers but my helmet (and helmet light) were not with the bike. MAJOR PROBLEM!!! I and several folks looked all over but no helmet. In France helmets are not required (they are more picky about reflective vests) so I could continue. However, one of the organizers found an old Bell helmet and gave it to me. It must have been 20 years old, didn't fit, was terribly uncomfortable, would not even let me wear a cycling cap underneath. Nevertheless it was a helmet and I didn't need a cycling cap to protect my head from sun at 3:00 am so I donned it and headed out after spending probably 90 minutes there.
Beyond Villaines
I rode about 40 km past Villaines still with very few route marks. I would go many kilometers without seeing other riders or signs. I was having a hard time keeping my head upright and constantly worried about missing a turn. I approached a round about, couldn't see any route sign, and when I applied brakes to slow down my upper body again collapsed onto the handle bars. Unlike the last time I was moving at pretty good clip, couldn't raise up and clipped a curb. I heard my helmet crack against the pavement, felt my shoulder strike the pavement, and wound up under my bike on a rural road in the middle of no where.
I don't know if I lost consciousness but as I became aware of my surroundings there wasn't a single person around. Then one motorist stopped, followed by several more. I tried to get up but my right shoulder reminded me that moving wasn't a good idea. I manged to get my control card with my left hand and pointed to the the next control and phone number but no one understood English. A couple other riders came by and although they didn't speak English they knew what I was showing them and made a phone call. One of them got my bike off me, and seemed very concerned that he couldn't figure out how to turn off my lights.
Police and ambulance personnel arrived and begin planning on taking me to a hospital. I tried to explain I needed to get back on my bike to finish my ride, but when one of the ambulance folks tested my right shoulder I realized the hospital was a better option. I did try to have them at least put my bike in the ambulance but I still had not found anyone at the scene who understood English. I finally figured that the police wouldn't leave my bike and I would have to deal with getting it back later.
Aftermath
I was taken to a hospital in Alerons where a few people spoke English. Xrays revealed a fractured right clavicle above my shoulder (fracture de l'extremite distale de la clavicule droite). No concussion but the Bell helmet was toast. I left it in a hospital trash can thankful I had not refused it or ditched it earlier. I was advised the ride organization had my bike and would make arrangements to get me back to my hotel. However, I had to wait about 6 hours for that to happen and then another 2 hour trip back to The Hotel Mercure. The hospital put me in a quiet private waiting room where I could sleep and fed me breakfast and lunch. However, it's hard to get comfortable wearing cycling clothes I ended up wearing for about 30 hours.
I got back to my hotel around 4:00 pm, briefed several friends who were in the lobby on what happened, and after cleaning up collapsed for the night. I also learned that an American cyclist from northern Virginia had been killed when he apparently fell asleep and drifted into an oncoming truck. His name was Thai Pham, and we had teamed up on a 600 k brevet last May riding together throughout a Saturday night and most of Sunday. That ride was the final qualifying ride for both of us to get into PBP. Although I never saw him in Paris I remember he was once of the nicest folks I had ever ridden with. It reminded me that life can be fleeting and sometimes turns on a simple decision like not refusing /ditching an uncomfortable, ill-fitting 20 year old helmet
7 comments:
Wow! What an epic ride Niel. I am totally jealous. I want to hear all about it when you get back.
Neil, Great job, sounds like a grate event. I want to do it maybe we can get a group and do it next time around.
Tremendous ride, Neil. After you've healed up for a few weeks, I think it would be interesting to see if you'll consider another 750 mile ride for 2012. The High Country 1200k and the Big Wild Ride might be some cool choices. Either way, what you accomplished at PBP is very inspiring.
A damn good effort, to be sure.
Neil, congrats on a great effort. I'd be happy if I only thought I could do something like this!!! Del
That was truly and epic adventure. Jennie and I hope that you heal quickly. Keep in touch Chris and Jennie
That was an epic adventure. Jennie and I hope that you heal quickly. Stay in touch. Chris and Jennie
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